The 12 Things That Must Be in Writing Before You Sign a Roofing Contract

Most roofing disputes don't come from fraud. They come from vague contracts that let both sides honestly disagree about what was promised — and when the job is done, there's no document clear enough to settle it.

Why "Replace the roof — $14,500" is not a contract

A legitimate contract has to specify scope, quality, and recourse. A one-line quote has none of those. "Replace roof" tells you nothing about which shingles, which underlayment, whether existing flashing gets reused, or who pulls the permit. If you and your contractor disagree six months after completion — about whether the valleys were properly flashed, or whether new decking was supposed to be included — the scope has to exist in writing or nobody's right. Courts and arbitrators can only work with what's on paper.

Before you sign anything for a $10,000–$30,000 roofing job, the contract should answer every one of the following twelve questions. If it doesn't, ask for an addendum in writing before the first nail goes in.

The 12 line items a legitimate roofing contract includes

1. Exact material brand, product line, and color

Not "architectural shingle." The contract should read something like GAF Timberline HDZ, Weathered Wood — and if the contractor will provide it, the product number. This matters because product lines within a single brand carry different warranties, different weights, and different price points. A contractor can substitute a cheaper product within the same brand family if the contract only says "architectural shingle." Get the full name in writing.

2. Underlayment type and coverage

Synthetic underlayment or 30-lb felt — not 15-lb felt, which is the cheapest option and provides minimal protection during a multi-day installation. Specify the brand if possible: Titanium PSU 30 or GAF Deck-Armor are two common specifications. The contract should also state coverage — full-deck underlayment is standard on a complete replacement. Anything that reads "as needed" or "per code minimum" is vague enough to be meaningless when you're trying to make a warranty claim.

3. Ice-and-water shield extent

Code minimum in most cold-climate jurisdictions is coverage at the eaves extending 24 inches past the interior heated wall. That's the floor, not the recommendation. A well-specified contract states exactly where ice-and-water shield will be applied: eaves only, or eaves plus valleys, roof-to-wall intersections, and around all penetrations. If your area has a history of ice dams — or if the contractor recommends upgraded coverage — get the upgraded scope in writing so there's no ambiguity about what was installed if a leak develops.

4. Flashing: new, not reused

Step flashing at walls, valley metal, chimney flashing, and pipe boots should all be new on a full replacement. "Reuse existing flashing where possible" is one of the most common cost-cutting phrases in residential roofing contracts, and it's a warranty trap. Most manufacturer warranties on shingles require new flashing to be valid. Get explicit language: "All flashing — step, valley, chimney, and pipe boots — to be removed and replaced with new material."

5. Starter strip and ridge caps

Both are visible, both affect long-term performance, and both are frequently cut-cornered. The contract should name the starter strip product — cutting up 3-tab shingles as a starter is an outdated shortcut. Ridge caps should be manufactured ridge cap shingles (such as GAF Seal-A-Ridge or Owens Corning Ridgecrest), not field shingles cut on-site. Site-cut ridge caps look fine initially and fail early. This is a line item worth $200–$400 on most jobs, and it's worth the specificity.

6. Ventilation scope

Ventilation determines how long your roofing system lasts, and it's the item most homeowners don't ask about. The contract should specify: ridge vent linear footage, soffit vent count and location, whether any existing gable vents will be sealed off (they should be, if ridge-and-soffit ventilation is the design), and whether rafter baffles are included where blown-in insulation meets the eaves. If the existing ventilation is being left as-is, that should be noted explicitly — along with any inspection finding about its adequacy.

7. Decking replacement protocol

Some decking replacement is almost always necessary on a reroof. The contract should state the per-sheet price — $50–$100 per sheet of 7/16" OSB is a typical range, though it varies by market. More importantly, specify the protocol: homeowner notification before any replacement, photo documentation of damaged sheets before and after, and the homeowner's right to be present during any decking work. "Decking replaced as needed" with no per-sheet price is an open line item that can inflate your final bill significantly.

8. Tear-off vs. layover — explicit

A layover (installing new shingles over existing ones) is cheaper, faster, and almost always worse for the long-term performance of your roof. Some jurisdictions prohibit more than two shingle layers; some manufacturer warranties require a full tear-off. The contract must say one of two things: "Complete tear-off to sheathing" or "Install over existing roofing." If it says neither, assume the contractor will do whichever is cheapest on the day. If you're paying for a tear-off, get that in writing.

9. Debris removal and disposal

Who provides the dumpster, where it goes on your property, and what protection is used under it (plywood is standard). The contract should also specify driveway protection — felt or plywood sheeting under staging areas — and a final nail-sweep with a rolling magnet. Torn-off shingles contain thousands of roofing nails. A magnetic sweep isn't optional if you have children, pets, or cars. Verify that disposal includes haul-away; some contractors charge separately for dump fees that weren't mentioned in the original quote.

10. Permit responsibility

Who pulls the permit, and whose name it's in. In many states, a licensed contractor is required to pull permits under their own license. If a contractor asks you to pull the permit as the homeowner, ask why — and understand that a permit in your name shifts liability to you if the work fails inspection or causes property damage. The contract should name the entity pulling the permit and the license number under which it's being pulled. If the contractor says the job doesn't require a permit, verify that independently with your local building department before proceeding.

11. Payment schedule

A reasonable payment structure for a residential roof looks like this: 25–50% deposit at contract signing (covering materials), a mid-job draw when the tear-off is complete and materials are on-site, and final payment on completion and passed inspection. Avoid paying more than 50% before materials arrive on your property. Never pay in full upfront. Some states have statutory limits on advance payments for home improvement contracts — check your state's contractor licensing board website. If a contractor demands full payment before work begins, that's a meaningful signal.

12. Workmanship warranty AND manufacturer warranty registration

These are two separate things. The workmanship warranty covers the contractor's installation — leaks from improper flashing, nail blow-offs, anything attributable to how the roof was installed rather than the materials themselves. Get the term (anywhere from 2 to 25 years, depending on the contractor and the program) and what it explicitly covers and excludes. The manufacturer warranty covers the shingles themselves — but most enhanced manufacturer warranties require registration by an authorized installer, within a specific window after installation. The contract should state who registers the warranty and in whose name it will be registered. Ask for a copy of the registration confirmation after the job is complete.

What else should be attached

Before you sign, the contractor should provide the following — not just mention them, but hand them to you in writing:

• Proof of general liability insurance: a current Certificate of Insurance naming you as the certificate holder, with coverage limits appropriate for a job of this size.
• Proof of workers' compensation coverage: a separate COI. If a worker is injured on your property and the contractor doesn't carry workers' comp, your homeowner's insurance may be the backstop.
• State contractor license number and the name the license is registered under. Verify it independently at your state's contractor licensing board — takes two minutes and occasionally surfaces expired licenses or active complaints.
• Signed lien waivers from any subcontractors before final payment. A subcontractor your contractor didn't pay can file a mechanic's lien against your property. A lien waiver from each sub at completion closes that exposure.

Red-flag contract language to negotiate out

These phrases appear in real roofing contracts and all of them create problems:

• "Allowance for decking" with no per-sheet price. An allowance without a unit price is a blank check.
• "Additional work as needed" without a written change-order requirement. Any work outside the original scope should require a signed change order before it starts — not after.
• "Buyer to remove and replace [item]." Moving patio furniture is reasonable. Satellite dishes, solar panels, or HVAC equipment on the roof are different — those require licensed trades, and the responsibility needs to be explicit.
• Mandatory arbitration clauses. Read the venue carefully. Some residential roofing contracts specify arbitration in the contractor's home city or through a provider that favors contractors. You can often negotiate the arbitration venue or remove the clause entirely on a residential job — ask.

One more thing before you sign

The contract is the part of the job that protects you from the part of the job you can't see — the underlayment, the flashing, the decking under new shingles. Twenty minutes going through this checklist before you sign saves six months of argument after the first storm.